The True Cost of Breeding

IIt never ceases to amaze me the amount of people who multiply the number in the litter by the price of a pup and call the figure 'profit'. If you are considering breeding to make money, then read on and be enlightened.

• First, consider the outlay in caring for your bitch, this begins way before she is ready to be mated. Bitches must be in tip top condition before they are mated if you want a healthy dam and litter, besides, no stud owner in their right mind would allow their dog to mate an unhealthy bitch, and quite rightly so. Pregnancy in itself takes a lot out of even the strongest bitch, particularly if they have a large litter.
• Responsible breeders will fork out for X-rays on their bitch to score the soundness of their hips thereby ensuring against passing on Hip Dysplacia.
• Next, the initial outlay for the services of the stud dog which is around the price of a pup (£500 summer 2000) The money you pay to the owner of the stud reflects several things, first, .their wealth of experience in following genetic lines and matching your bitch to a dog who will complement her good traits. Also, for researching the lines for evidence of hereditary diseases such as Gastric Torsion (bloat), Immuno Deficiency, Distochyasis, Entropion, von Willebrand's disease, Cryptorchidism, or Hip Dysplacia (this list is not exhaustive). Furthermore, it reflects their commitment in preparing and showing the stud. The stud fee is not for a litter, or even for a pregnancy, it is for the services rendered by the dog. Majority of stud owners will offer you a free stand with the same, or another bitch if pregnancy does not occur, but you must remember that this could well be money down the drain. How many people have another bitch to breed from if they find that theirs is unable? Don't be tempted to save money by mating your bitch to a dog you met in the park, the results could be disasterous if due care has not been taken researching their compatability and freedom from hereditary diseases.
• Expect to spend a fair few bob travelling around the country to find a suitable breeder and stud dog
• Already several hundreds of (up front) pounds down, what if things go wrong? your bitch may have to have an emergency Caesarean section, or other veterinary assistance. Whelping can be a risky business, you may even loose your beloved animal. Even if she produces lots of pups, you may not break even.
• Will you have to buy or make a whelping box? set aside some cash for the wood, nails and varnish, and for the laundry costs of keeping the dam and litter clean
• Another cost is registering the pups with the Kennel Club. A fee is payable for each pup
• The annual membership fee to the Council of Docked Breeds is one of the cheaper 'must do's' if we are to retain the right to protect our dogs
• The price of dew claw removal and docking add up
• If you imagined that the dam feeds the litter, then you are seriously mistaken. From week four you will introduce solid food, a box of 24 Weetabix lasts about two days. From the fifth week they become voracious! and are fed with puppy food three or four times a day. Don't forget to add the cost of the extra food eaten by the dam in the last few weeks. Add a few cans of milk substitute to the list, and that doesn't come cheap.
• Extra electricity costs (for heating and washing the bedding) particularly if its winter.
• Advertising costs can mount up, especially if your litter remains unsold at eight weeks.
• When the pups are ready to leave, add up the cost of the literature, and food, and other miscellaneous items you can't resist putting in your puppy packs
• Your telephone calls to the new owners, checking that all is well
• Then add to all of this your time, not just four months, but for the lifetime of the litter

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